The Pasty Path

While I have been lucky enough to have travelled to some amazing overseas destinations over the years, my knowledge of the British Isles is somewhat lacking. A 500+ mile road trip to the South West county of Cornwall has opened my eyes to the beauty that lies closer to home.

Jam first or Cream first?

Spending much of my stay visiting the coastal attractions of this far flung peninsular, it would be easy to mistake that I’d ventured somewhere far more tropical. Palm trees aplenty, gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear pockets of seawater set an apt scene with the UK baking in a heatwave with record-breaking temperatures. Initial plans to walk sections of the South West Coast Path were put on the back burner and ice cream replaced the desire for pasties and cream teas.

St Michael's Mount from Marazion.

Based in Marazion and making full use of Cornwall’s bus network, highlights included the castle topped St Michael’s Mount - the attractive island linked to the mainland by a tidal causeway, the Minnack Theatre - uniquely situated on the side of a cliff with tiered seating and stage looking out to the sea, Porthcurno - gorgeous golden sand beaches in the village and in nearby coves, and St Ives - a classic seaside town with an upmarket feel. Beware of the seagulls though!

Relocating to the northern shores of Cornwall at the popular surfing spot of Widemouth Bay close to Bude, the thermometer readings continued to remain high. Culinary delights were the order of the day in the attractive and adjacent coastal towns of Padstow and Rock. The former very much associated with TV chef Rick Stein who runs several high end eateries within what some locals have renamed Pad-Stein.

Padstow harbour.

In appearance, Port Isaac proved to be the quintessential fishing village. Steep-sided valleys and narrow cobbled streets of higgledy piggledy houses congregating around a small but perfectly formed beach and harbour. It’s no wonder it was chosen as the setting for a TV series - Doc Marten (although I’ve never seen it). Instead of hunting out filming locations, I opted for delicious takeaway fish and chips, served with a wedge of lemon and samphire no less!

Port Isaac.

For our final stop, it was back on the buses, taking a scenic rural journey along winding narrow roads to the quaint village of Boscastle. Given its attractive appearance, it’s hard to believe this was the location of such devastating flash flooding in 2004. After buying chocolate cake from ladies at a WI craft fair, we hit the coastal path. The surprising frequency of ascent and descent didn’t detract from the sheer beauty of the coastline over a five-mile stretch to Tintagel where ancient rampart remains are linked to the legend of King Arthur. With a return to a more temperate climate, my Holy Grail was finally sought and consumed in the form of a cream tea. A fitting end to a Cornish break where “jam first” is the royal decree.

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