The Sweet Side of South America

With a history of dictatorships, coup d'etats and hyper inflation, Argentina might not be the first country that springs to mind when planning an overseas trip. But from my brief interlude to the South American republic last week, I can report on stunning scenery of snow-capped peaks, dense forests and crystal clear lakes, and a capital city with endless entertainment and sites of interest to rival any of the top European metropolises.

El Caminito, La Boca, Buenos Aires.

Arriving overland from neighbouring Chile, a bus journey through the Andes was a perfect introduction to this giant of a nation - the eighth biggest in the world in fact. Spectacular views along the Cruce Andino route made for a great first impression as extinct volcanoes, pristine pine forests and mirror-like stretches of water kept me glued to the bus window.

The view from the top of Cerro Llao Llao

My first stop, San Carlos de Bariloche, proved a perfectly adequate base for a two-day stay. Slightly rough around the edges but with a town square akin to a setting in the Swiss Alps and an idyllic location on the shores of Lago (Lake) Nahuel Huapi, along with scores of shops, restaurants and - in particular - chocolatiers, meant Bariloche had plenty to offer.

A day trip to the adjacent Cerro (Mountain) Llao Llao was an excellent introduction to this beautiful area of the Rio Negro province. A well-trodden wooded path with a steep section to the small mountain's summit provided amazing views of the surroundings and a convenient lunch spot. On the return, a detour to a small bay and a dip into the lake's brisk waters proved to be the excursion's icing on the cake, or perhaps the dulce de leche in the alfajor (an Argentine biscuit favourite).

San Carlos de Bariloche town square.

A short internal flight to Buenos Aires and a very different setting for the remaining sojourn. European vibes were experienced once more, which is only natural considering some of the principal buildings of the city are French or Italian-influenced in their design. (Indeed, a high proportion of Argentines have links to Italy dating back to the mass migration in the 19th century. There are significant links between the two countries in terms of language, customs and traditions). The Palacio Barolo in particular - a grand 22-storey building - is a true work of art with its design based on Dante's seminal narrative poem, Divine Comedy.

Palacio Barolo, Buenos Aires.

Distinct areas give the city its unique identity. These include Palermo, with its leafy streets full of bars, independent shops, street art and outdoor-seated restaurants. The well-preserved San Telmo, host of a huge scale Sunday market selling a vast array of handicrafts and trinkets along its attractive cobbled streets. And La Boca, one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires characterised by the brightly-painted zinc shacks of Caminito, La Bombonera (The Chocolatebox) - home to Boca Juniors Football Club - and providing a reminder of home, its very own transporter bridge, Puente Transbordador, which sadly (as in the case of Middlesbrough) no longer functions.

Many other highlights were food-related as I re-aquainted myself with the aforementioned dulce de leche - the staple Argentine ingredient used lavishly in cakes, biscuits and ice cream. I was also happy to succumb to the South American nation's love of red meat, venturing to more than a couple of the traditional parrillas where fine cuts of beef don't come in sizes less than 500g! A glass of the domestically produced Malbec being the perfect accompaniment. Sadly, my palate would not go so far as to sway me into appreciating the national passion for the bitter-tasting mate (a herbal tea drunk through a metal straw) but I gave it a go.

Trying mate in San Telmo.

My lastings impressions are of a proud nation of warm, kind people with an ability to enjoy life despite the negatives. Combine that with the incredible scenery, delicious food, buzzing nightlife and sparkling spirit, and you've got a country that's well worth visiting.

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